Owl Amigurumi – Mr Murasaki
Owl Amigurumi: Mr MurasakiBy Guest Tutor: Lee Mei Li of AmiguruMEISkill level: Easy Duration: About 2 hoursAbbreviations
Ch: chain
Sc: single crochet
Dc: double crochet
Inc: increment stitch / 2sc in a stitch
Inv dec: invisible decreaseMaterials
2.3mm hook
Similar-sized yarn in purple, cyan and white
Crochet thread in black 2 x 4mm pink brads
Yellow felt seal
Darning needle
Polyester fiberfillBody
With purple yarn:
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring {6}.
Round 2: [Inc] around {12}.
Round 3: [Inc, sc 1] around {18}.
Round 4: [Inc, sc 2] around {24}.
Round 5: [Inc, sc 3] around {30}.
Round 6: [Inc, sc 4] around {36}.
Round 7-18: Sc around {36}.
Round 19: [Inv dec, sc 4] around {30}.
Round 20: [Inv dec, sc 3] around {24}.
Round 21: [Inv dec, sc 2] around {18}.
Stuff body.
Round 22: [Inv dec, sc 1] around {12}.
Round 23: [Inv dec] around {6}.
Fasten off and weave in ends.Eyes
Make 2 with white yarn:
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring {6}.
Round 2: [Inc] around {12}.
Round 3: [Inc, sc 1] around {18}.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Cut a strand of black crochet thread and sew a diagonal eyelid across each eye. Knot off ends at the back.Wings
Make 2 with cyan yarn:
Round 1: Sc 6 in magic ring {6}.
Round 2: [Inc] around {12}.
Round 3: [Inc, sc 1] around {18}.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.Ears
Make 2 with purple yarn:
Round 1: Sc 3 in magic ring {3}.
Round 2: [Inc] around {6}.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.Assembly
1. Sew eyes onto the body.
2. Fold each wing through the center to make them look like semi-circles. Sew them onto the sides of the body, near the bottom corner of each eye.
3. Cut a strand of cyan yarn and sew a series of upside down Vs on the body, below the eyes. There should be 3 on the first row, 2 on the second, and 1 at the bottom.
4. Sew ears onto the top of the head.
5. Cut out a small egg-shaped beak from the yellow felt seal. Cut it in half through the center. Glue it onto the point where both eyes meet.
6. Glue pink brads to the bottom corners of each eye. Tada!As this is an original amiguruMEI pattern, kindly do not claim it as your own. You may place a link to this pattern from your site, but please do not repost it onto your page. Remember to share a picture of your own kawaii Mr Murasaki with us!
1. Start by crocheting in the round.
2. From Round 7-18: Sc around [36].
3. At the end of Round 21, stuff body with polyfill fibre.
4. Make 2 eyes and embellish with a strand of black crochet thread.
5. Sew eyes onto the body.
6. Make 2 wings and sew onto the sides of the body.
7. Add some feathery designs onto Mr Murasaki’s tummy.
8. Top off with a pair of ears.
9. Make a cute beak out of yellow felt seal.
10. Glue in place.
Make your own Purin-chan!
Materials
- 2.50 mm hook
- Similar sized yarn (lemon yellow and dark brown)
- Embroidery floss (dark brown)
- Darning needle
- 2 x small 2.5mm round beads
- Pink brads (optional)
- Polyester fiberfill
- Small pebbles (to weigh Purin-chan down)
Body
With lemon yellow yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat 6 times (24)
Round 5: *2 sc, sc in next 3 sc*, repeat 6 times (30)
Round 6: *2 sc, sc in next 4 sc*, repeat 6 times (36)
Round 7: *2 sc, sc in next 5 sc*, repeat 6 times (42)
Round 8: *2 sc, sc in next 6 sc*, repeat 6 times (48)
Round 9: *2 sc, sc in next 7 sc*, repeat 6 times (54)
Round 10 – 23: Sc in each sc around (54)
Sew on the small round beads as eyes – it should fall on round 12.
With dark brown embroidery floss, sew on the nose and mouth.
Pop in the pink brads (optional) for a blushing effect.
Round 24: *Inv dec, sc in next 7 sc*, repeat 6 times (48)
Round 25: * Inv dec, sc in next 6 sc*, repeat 6 times (42)
Round 26: * Inv dec, sc in next 5 sc*, repeat 6 times (36)
Round 27: * Inv dec, sc in next 4 sc*, repeat 6 times (30)
Round 28: *Inv dec, sc in next 3 sc*, repeat 6 times (24)
Round 29: *Inv dec, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat 6 times (18)
Begin stuffing the body. Add some small pebbles so Purin-chan will stand upright on its own. Top off with more stuffing.
Round 30: *Inv dec, sc in next 1 sc*, repeat 6 times (12)
Round 31: Inv dec all around (6)
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Ears (make 2)
With lemon yellow yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4 – 6: Sc in each sc around (18)
Round 7: *Sc2together, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat 6 times (12)
Round 8 – 12: Sc in each sc around (12)
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Hands (make 2)
With lemon yellow yarn:
Round 1: 7 sc in magic circle (7)
Round 2 – 6: Sc in each sc around (7)
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Tail
With lemon yellow yarn:
Round 1: 5 sc in magic circle (5)
Round 2 – 4: Sc in each sc around (5)
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Feet (make 2)
With lemon yellow yarn:
Round 1: 7 sc in magic circle (7)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (14)
Round 3 – 5: Sc in each sc around (14)
Round 6: *Sc2together*, repeat 7 times (7)
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Weave the yarn to the centre back of the feet.
Pinch the piece slightly to give it shape.
Beret (base)
With dark brown yarn:
Round 1: 6 sc in magic circle (6)
Round 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Round 3: *2 sc, sc in next sc*, repeat 6 times (18)
Round 4: *2sc, sc in next 2 sc*, repeat 6 times (24)
Fasten off and leave a long end for sewing.
Please note: I used a thicker yarn for this. You may want to add another round if your yarn is slightly thinner.
Beret (tip)
With dark brown yarn:
Chain 4
Round 1: Starting in second chain from hook, sc in the next 2sc, slip stitch in the last sc.
Fold the piece in half and sew it (with a slight protrusion) onto the centre of the beret base.
Assembly
- Sew on the ears, arms and feet.
- Sew on the tiny tail.
- Sew on the beret.
TOOTHLESS PATTERN
I used worsted weight yarn and a size F/3.75 mm hook. I was able to make all the pieces with 1 skein of Vanna's Choice yarn. 
Important: in the instructions for the body, when I say "inc 2,"
I mean single crochet 3 into the same single crochet, so you are
essentially increasing by two stitches in the same stitch instead of
one.
Body:
R1. MR (6)
R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12)
R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18)
R4. (Sc 2, inc 1) 6 times around (24)
R5. (Sc 3, inc 1) 6 times around (30)
R6. (Sc 4, inc 1) 6 times around (36)
R7-8. Sc around
R9. Sc 12, dec 6, sc 12 (this is what shapes Toothless's butt) (30)
R10. Sc around
R11. (Sc 3, dec 1) 6 times around (24)
R12-13. Sc around
R14. (Sc 4, dec 1) 4 times around (20)
R15. Sc around
R16. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 times around (16)
Fasten off, you don't need to leave a long tail for sewing. Stuff the body.
Head:
R1. MR (6)
R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12)
R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18)
R4. (Sc 2, inc 1) 6 times around (24)
R5. (Sc 3, inc 1) 6 times around (30)
R6. (Sc 4, inc 1) 6 times around (36)
R7. Sc around
R8. (Sc 5, inc 1) 6 times around (42)
R9. (Sc 6, inc 1) 6 times around (48)
R10-11. Sc around
R12. Sc 23, inc 2 in next 2 sc, sc 23 (52)
R13. Sc around
R14. Sc 25, inc regularly in the next 2 sc, sc 25. (54)
R15. (Sc 7, dec 1) 6 times around (48)
R16. (Sc 6, dec 1) 6 times around (42)
R17. (Sc 5, dec 1) 6 times around (36)
R18. (Sc 4, dec 1) 6 times around (30)
R19. (Sc 3, dec 1) 6 times around (24)
R20. (Sc 4, dec 1) 4 times around (20)
R21. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 times around (16)
R22. Sc around
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing, then stuff the head. When
you stuff the head, you will need to do a lot of shaping. The
increases in rounds 12 and 14 give Toothless a bit of a point in the
front of his face, but until you stuff and shape the head it looks
pretty weird. I usually put more stuffing in the back of his head, a
bit less in the front, but enough in the point of his "snout" so that
it's clearly there.
I like to sew the body and the head together at this point. He has a
thin little neck so I usually skewer him from head to bottom with a
long knitting needle, it keeps everything in place.
*Toes: To make a toe, HDC 5 in the same st. When you finish the fifth
HDC, remove your hook from the loop, loosen the loop, reinsert your
hook into the first HDC, grab the loop you dropped and pull it through
the first HDC, like a slip stitch, then continue your round.
Front legs (make 2):
R1. MR (6)
R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12)
R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18)
R4. In BLO (except for the toes), sc 4, (Make toe*, sc 2) until you
have 4 toes with 2 sc's between each, sc 4.
R5. Sc around. You should still have 18 st. The toes take up a lot of
space and sometimes obscure stitches, especially the stitch right
before the toe, so those are easy to miss. If you have trouble seeing
it, just pull the toe to the left and you should be able to find it.
R6. (Sc 7, dec 1) 2 times around (16)
R7. Sc around
R8. (Sc 6, dec 1) 2 times around (14)
R9. (Sc 5, dec 1) 2 times around (12)
R10-12. Sc around
R13. (Sc 4, dec 1) 2 times around (10)
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing.
Back legs (make 2):
R1. MR (6)
R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12)
R3. (Sc 1, inc 1) 6 times around (18)
R4. In BLO (except for the toes), sc 4, (Make toe*, sc 2) until you
have 4 toes with 2 sc's between each, sc 4.
R5. Sc around.
R6. (Sc 7, dec 1) 2 times around (16)
R7. Sc around
R8. (Sc 6, dec 1) 2 times around (14)
R9-10. Sc around.
Fasten off and leave a long tail for sewing. I prefer to sew the back
legs on before the front legs. When I stuff the front legs, I like to
stuff the bottoms and leave very little stuffing at the top, so the
legs can sit flatter against Toothless's front.
I sew all the way around the circumference of the back legs when
attaching them to the body, but when attaching the front legs I
typically squish the opening and sew the ends together as I sew them
on, if that makes sense. It's just another measure to make them
more flat.
Ears (make 2):
R1. MR (6)
R2. Sc 2 in each sc around (12)
R3-4. Sc around
R5. (Sc 2, inc 1) 4 times around (16)
R6-7. Sc around
R8. (Sc 3, inc 1) 4 times around (20)
R9-14. Sc around
R15. (Sc 3, dec 1) 4 time around (16)
R16-17. Sc around
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. You don't need to stuff the
ears, just squish them flat and sew them on.
Mini-horns (make 6):
R1. MR (6)
R2. (Sc 1, inc 1) 3 times around (9)
R3-5. Sc around
Fasten off and leave a tail for sewing. Two horns go between the ears
on the top of the head, and two horns on each side of his head.
Tail: I use the instructions from here:
http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2009/08/only-to-show-you-im-still-here-post.html
and usually stop at round 15. You can make it shorter or longer if you
wish.
Wings (courtesy of Stitch Bitch):
ch 6, work sc in 2nd ch from hook and the one after it, sc 3 in next ch, sc 1 in each of the next 2 chs; ch1 and turn (7 sc)
sc in first 3 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; ch1 and turn (9 sc)
sc in first 4 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; ch4 and turn (11 sc)
sc in 2nd ch from hook and next 2 chs, sc in next 5 sts, 3sc in next st, sc in next 5 sts, 3 foundation sc; (19 sc)
ch 1, and turn
sc in next 9 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts; fasten off (21 sc)
Tailfins (courtesy of TacticalGranny)
set A (base of tail near body):
Make two and attach to center line of tail near the body.
Ch 5, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc 3 in next ch, ss to last ch and fasten off.
Tailfins set B (end of tail):
Make two black, or make one black, one red. Red goes on the left side of tail when the tail is facing you.
Row 1: Ch 5, work sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 2 ch, inc in last ch; ch 1 and turn (5sc)
Row 2: sc in first 3sc, sc2tog in last 2 sc. ch 1 and turn. (4sc)
Row 3: sc in first 2sc, sc 3 in next sc, ss (slip stitch) to last sc. Place 2 more ss through ends of previous rows to form the curved shape at the end of the fin. Fasten off and attach to tail.
Eyes:
The acrylic felt that I used for the eyes can be purchased at Michaels, Jo-Ann's, AC Moore or any general craft store. You can find it in the kids craft section with the school craft supplies, pipe cleaners, pom-poms, popsicle sticks, etc. They come in small, individual sheets that cost about 25 cents apiece, so I buy plenty in case I need extra!
You can also use real felt if you desire, though I only have experience using the acrylic craft felt. I cut out the general shapes (you can right-click save the image provided at the top of this pattern and print it out and it should print to the correct scale, but it is just as easy to draw it yourself):
I use these scissors to cut out my eyes since they are small and precise. I fold the sheet of felt in half and cut out the general shape of the eye, a bit larger than I want it to be so I can cut it down, refine the shape and make the edges nicer. Folding it in half will give you two pieces that are generally the same shape, then you can cut them down and make them look nicer as I stated before. Do the same with the felt for the pupils.
Because of the bumpy texture of the crochet, I find that it is easier to use fabric glue to apply the eyes rather than sewing them on. The shape of the eye stays more consistent. I like to use Fabri-tac glue... be advised that it dries quickly and is quite permanent, so be careful when gluing your eyes on.
ELEPHANT PATTERN
Materials:
- grey or pink yarn (I used Lion Brand’s Vanna’s Choice in “Pink and Silver Grey”)
- 2.5 mm or 2.75 mm crochet hook (I used a 2.75 mm hook)
- yarn needle
- fiberfill
- 6 mm or 9 mm safety eyes (I used 9 mm)
- fabric for lining of ears
- white felt for tusks
Note: I worked in continuous rounds (vs. joined rounds). ***PLEASE follow along with my blog post HERE to see many more step-by-step photos. It is also VERY IMPORTANT that the“right” side of amigurumi is facing outwards for this project, otherwise the stitches of the body and the legs will look different. Please read about the “Right Side of Amigurumi” HEREto learn more!
Body:
Ch 9 ( this is the foundation chain),
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 7 in back loops of foundation chain. 3 sc in last stitch. Turn the chain, Sc 6 in front loops of foundation chain, then 1 inc in next front loop [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain]. (18 sts)
R2: 1 inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc (24)
R3: 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc (27)
R4: 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (33)
R5: 2 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc (39)
R6: 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc (45)
R7: 15 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc (48)
R8: 2 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc (54)
R9: 4 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc (60)
R10: 6 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc (66)
R11: 1 sc in each sc (66)
R12: 1 inc, 17 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc, 7 sc (72)
R13: 1 sc in each sc (72)
R14: 2 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc (78)
R15: 1 sc in each sc (78)
R16: 4 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (84)
R17: 1 sc in each sc (84)
R18: 6 sc, 1 inc, 20 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc (90)
R19-22: 1 sc in each sc (90)
R23: 39 sc, chain 6 (skip 12 sc to create the hole for the trunk), 39 sc (84)
R24: 37 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 37 sc (82)
R25: 1 sc in each sc (82)
Cut the yarn. Leave a marker in the last sc of Row 25. Work by rows for the next part. We will now be crocheting the tab that falls below the trunk.
R26: Skip 37 sc. Rejoin yarn and make 8 sc (8)
R27: Ch 1, turn, 1 sc in each sc (8)
R28: Ch 1, turn, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec (6)
R29: Ch 1, turn, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec (4)
R30: Ch 1, turn, 2 dec (2)
Fasten off.
We have now created a tab that falls below the trunk.
Place safety eyes between Rounds 16-17.
Legs:
In order to create the legs, we will divide the body into leg chains. Each leg chain consists of 6 chains and we will be making 4 leg chains (A-D) in total.
Leg Chain A: Join to one end of the last sc of R25 (see pic below), chain 6, count 21 sc, join with sl st to this end.
Leg Chain B: Continuing on from Leg Chain A, Ch 6. Sl stitch to last stitch of Row 30 of the tab.
Leg Chain C: Continuing on from Leg Chain B (the first end is in the last stitch of Row 30), chain 6, then count 15 sc from the beginning of the base of the tab of R25 and join with sl st..
Leg Chain D: Continuing on from Leg Chain C, Chain 6 then join with sl stitch to last stitch of R25 (where your stitch marker is). Do not cut yarn.
We will now be working on each individual leg, crocheting around the body and the leg chains that we have just created.
Leg A:
Starting from last stitch of Row 25 (so where the marker was, i.e. no need to cut the yarn from before, simply continue working):
R1: 21 sc (of the body), 6 sc (of the leg chain A) (27)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (27)
R3: 5 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (25)
R4: 17 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (24)
R5: *2 sc, 1 dec* repeat around (18)
R6: *1 sc, 1 dec*, repeat around (12)
R7: 6 dec
Fasten off and weave in end.
Leg B:
Count 23 stitches from where marker was in Row 25 (or as indicated in diagram above) and rejoin yarn.
R1: 15 sc (of the body), 6 sc (along the edge of the tab), 6 sc (of the leg chain B) (27)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (27)
R3: 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (25)
R4: 1 dec, 23 sc (24)
R5: *2 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (18)
R6: *1 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (12)
R7: 6 dec
Fasten off and weave in end.
Leg C:
Begin in the last stitch of Row 30 (the tab) or as indicated in diagram above and rejoin yarn.
R1: 6 sc (along the edge of the tab), 15 sc (of the body), 6 sc (of the chain C) (27)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (27)
R3: 5 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (25)
R4: 17 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (24)
R5: *2 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (18)
R6: *1 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (12)
R7: 6 dec
Fasten off and weave in end.
Leg D:
Rejoin yarn in the body in the stitch next to Leg C (as indicated in diagram above).
R1: 21 sc (of the body), 6 sc (of the leg chain C) (27)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (27)
R3: 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (25)
R4: 1 dec, 23 sc (24)
R5: *2 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (18)
R6: *1 sc, 1 dec*, rep around (12)
R7: 6 dec
Fasten off and weave in end.
Trunk:
Rejoin yarn in the hole left for the trunk. Rejoin in stitch in the middle of the tab (tab edge consists of 6 sts).
R1: 3 sc (half of the tab), 12 sc (of the body), 3 sc (other half of the tab) (18)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (18)
R3: *1 dec, 4 sc*, rep 3 times (15)
R4-5: 1 sc in each sc (15)
R6: *1 dec, 3 sc*, rep 3 times (12)
R7-8: 1 sc in each sc (12)
R9: *1 dec, 2 sc*, rep 3 times (9)
R10: 1 sc in each sc (9)
R11: *1 dec, 1 sc*, rep 3 times (6)
Fasten off and weave in end.
Belly:
R1: 6 sc in the MR (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: *1 inc, 1 sc*, rep around (18)
R4: *1 inc, 2 sc*, rep around (24)
Stuff body and trunk firmly. To close the belly, attach the crocheted belly piece to the edges of the four leg chains. The belly piece should fit in perfectly since it consists of 24 stitches while the leg chains each consist of 6 chains (i.e. four leg chains x 6 chains = 24 stitches).
Ears (make 2):
Ch 7 ( this is the foundation chain),
R1: Starting from second chain from hook, Sc 5 in back loops of foundation chain. 3 sc in last stitch. Turn the chain, Sc 4 in front loops of foundation chain, then 1 inc in next front loop [we are making an oval by crocheting around the chain]. (14 sts)
R2: 1 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc (20)
R3: 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (26)
R4: 1 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 1 inc (32)
R5-6: 2 hdc, 9 sc, 7 hdc, 9 sc, 5 hdc (32)
R7: *1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc*, rep twice (28)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Fold crocheted piece in half so that it curves inwards. Sew fabric onto inner part of ears. Sew open piece shut. Attach ears to body.
Tail:
R1: 4 sc in the MR (4)
R2: 1 sc in each sc (4)
R3: *1 inc, 1 sc*, rep twice (6)
R4: 1 sc in each sc (6)
R5: *1 inc, 2 sc*, rep twice (8)
R6-7: 1 sc in each sc (8)
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Attach to body.
Tusks (optional):
Cut tusks out of white felt. Attach with glue gun with tusks pointing upwards or downwards.
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